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Sunday, August 7, 2011

Peco Turnout - Prep

A friend of mine ask for instructions on how I modified/prep my PECO Turnouts, most of what I did came from a on-line clinic reference by Rick Bell (http://dccinstallsandsales.com). I presently do not remember were I downloaded it from most likely from one of the MRR Forums or Yahoo Groups. email me if you would like a copy it's little over 2mb in size.

A backside view of a unmodified PECO Turnout note the existing jumper for the frog


First thing I did was remove the spring that holds the points in-place against the rails as I am going to use tortoise switch machines. I discovered, I had two different ways PECO manufactured their turnouts as shown below. 


Once the spring was removed. I had to drill a hole in the throw bar for the switch machine.


Next is to isolate the frog and wing rails from the points, by cutting two gaps in the wing rails.


I used a Zona Jeweler saw recommend on Fast Track website with No 2 Saw Blades (.028 x .013 x 43TPI) for the gaps.
 
 

Added jumpers from outside rails before the rail gaps to the frog, so to provide addition connectivity for the points.


Add a wire for the frog polarity change from switch machine. There is a couple ways of do this I solder the wire at the junction point of the existing jumpers.


To complete the isolation of the frog. I install the PECO insulated rail joiners on the two frog rails or you can use the metal one's and gap the rail at your preferred location.

7 comments:

  1. Hi Dwayne,

    I hope you don't mind, but I have included a link to this page on the Atlas Forums at:
    http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=70288

    If that's not akoay with you please let me know and I will remove the link.

    I love your blog, BTW.

    Regards,
    Ron

    ReplyDelete
  2. I've modified my PECO N code 55 turnouts exactly the way you have described. However, in cutting the gaps, I've found that using a jeweler's saw takes a lot of time, I haven't been able to cut through the rails without damaging the ties underneath. Looks like you've avoided damaging the ties someway. Care to share?

    Ken kuldor@yahoo.com

    Now I use a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel. Very fast and, if I'm careful, little or no cutting into the railroad tie beneath the cut gap.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ken,

      The jeweler saw was slow in the beginning but now not and it gives me greater control of the cut, with a Dremel I tend to nick the outter rails.

      I cut the gap along the side of a tie, only the small piece of plastic below the rail is cut similar were I solder the wires too. This has no affect on the turnout structure.

      Delete
  3. Great piece on turnouts. Could you please e-mail me the 2mg file referenced in the article? My email is seanmcleod1234@wi.rr.com. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks for the great tutorial on modifying the turnouts. If possible would you be able to email me the 2mb file referenced in the article?
    My email address is theperzels@gmail.com

    Thank you,

    Chris

    ReplyDelete